What is RAD?
In the world of LLB kung fu bike handling, the most important relationship is the one between your hands and your feet. When we Ride (with a capital R), we create angles with our hands while staying balanced on our feet.
A dialed RAD helps you make dramatic angles without drama.
From a bike setup standpoint, the most important relationship is the one between your grips and your pedals.
In the RideLogic Bike Setup System we call the distance between your grips and your bottom bracket your Rider Area Distance (RAD).
The RideLogic Bike Setup System focuses on this relationship — on RADness if you will. A dialed RAD does two important things for you:
1. Creates maximum arm range for descending, braking, cornering, pumping, dropping and all the fun stuff, and
2. Helps you generate maximum power for sprinting, steep climbing, pumping, manualing, hopping, wheelie drops and other power moves.
In the examples below, check out the relationship between the rider’s hands and feet (or the bottom bracket and grips — same difference).
Range of motion for bike control
The perfect setup helps you make dramatic angles without drama.
A dialed RAD gives you the arm range to turn a big ledge into a tiny one.
A dialed RAD also helps you absorb big bumps.
Steep climbing is all about setup and technique. OK, fitness helps too.
Wheelie drop, aided by a nearly perfect RAD.
A BMX gate start is like pedaling a mountain bike up a ledge, only with way more power. The same RAD rules apply.
Pump-manualing uses the same hip drive — and bike setup — as a steep climb or gate start.
Off the showroom floor, most mountain bikes, are equipped with handlebars that are too high and too far forward for optimal handling and peak power. When you dial in the distance between your hands and feet, you enjoy noticeably better handling and more seamless power.
Yes! The optimal RAD helps you shred better and pedal better.
Speaking of full extension and perfect RADs: